The Dow Jones Pasta Index

You're probably wondering what the heck this is, as did I when I saw it on the menu at Sandro's, a Roman restaurant on the Upper East Side. It's the brainchild of chef Sandro Fioriti, and the only reason to hope that the economy gets worse. The lower the Dow, the lower the price of all pasta entrees (except for the ravioli) until 6:30 p.m. Last night, that meant a huge bowl of fat, chewy bucatini (spaghetti on steroids) in a tomato sauce filled with tender chunks of pancetta, onions and the odd basil leaf, and a healthy portion of whisper-soft fettucini in a rich bolognese sauce. Normally, the prices of these dishes hover around the $23 range. But with such a deal, we didn't feel guilty indulging in Caesar salad and a wonderful tiramisu - the latter was served as a parfait. The top half of the glass was filled with light mascarpone foam into which had been mixed some tiny chocolate chips, while the base consisted of dense, espresso liqueur-drenched ladyfingers. There was also an interesting beverage on the menu which I'd never seen before: an infusion of clove-studded lemon peels. Perfect to take the chill off of the night.

Sandro's: 306 East 81st St., (212) 288-7374.